Articles on Food
The Inspiration in No-culinary Elements as a Starting Point for the Creative Process
INTRODUCTION Last February, I visited Patrizia, run by Tommaso Zoboli, who offers thematic menus at his restaurant in Modena. The fairy tale menu I experienced there is clearly rooted in…
French Haute Cuisine: Dead or Alive? Reflections on L’Ambroisie and Le Cinq
Sensationalism and marketing gimmicks aside, is it true that the Haute Cuisine in France is on the verge of death? My answer to that question may sound equivocal at first:…
Michelin: A Friendship That Went Sour
I started serious dining out in 1986 when I had a fellowship…
French Haute Cuisine: Dead or Alive? Reflections on L’Ambroisie and Le Cinq
Sensationalism and marketing gimmicks aside, is it true that the Haute Cuisine…
The Society of the Illusionists: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Once a year in the early spring, the restaurant world holds the…
Gastromondiale’s Madeleines of 2017: Part I (Editors)
Gastromondiale, we are moved by dishes that entice our senses and only…
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Tacos, Tradition, and the Michelin Money Machine
The only thing that distinguishes El Califa de Leon by…
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The Service Of The Fish
I am a proponent of cooking fish whole. However, after having cooked, served, and eaten a wide variety of fish,…
A Theory of the Creation of a Dish: Part II
Food has the power to nourish not only our bodies but also our souls. For many, the experience of dining…
A Theory of the Creation of a Dish: Part I
Food has the power to nourish not only our bodies but also our souls. For many, the experience of dining…
A Theory of Ingredients: Musings and Hypothetical Conversations
I had a fascination with gastronomy first piqued more than a decade ago by Vedat Milor and Mikael Jonsson’s unequalled…
Michelin Gets Caught Red-Handed in Korea: An Unfolding Saga
Since the time that the Guide Michelin commissioned in 2015 a guide to Seoul, paid for by the government’s Korean…
Neapolitan Pizza Primer – Entry #1 in the Gastromondiale Pizza Journal
To speak about pizza, and Neapolitan pizza in particular, is a risky endeavor. The theme is more encompassing and complex…
The problem of protein; or, why I want to ‘save’ food for pleasure
More recently, something interesting began to happen. The line of questioning that starts with ‘why do you do it?’ began…
The Michelin/Visit California Guide Rush
With pronouncements vouching for Michelin’s “unrivaled integrity, independence, and expertise”, the Director of Visit California was apparently unaware of, wasn’t…
One Part Genius To One Part Hype: Nouvelle Cuisine Française Clarified
The term “Nouvelle Cuisine” is not as new as one might think. Marin codified 18th-century French cuisine, while Menon (pseudonym)…
Dining in the Bay Area, Part One: Introduction
As a dining destination, the Bay Area had never really interested me. The Michelin stars kept tumbling in, but I…