Articles on Food
Michelin: A Friendship That Went Sour
I started serious dining out in 1986 when I had a fellowship to study for a year in France and lunch menus in three star restaurants were affordable. [...] Nowadays…
The Society of the Illusionists: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Once a year in the early spring, the restaurant world holds the equivalent of a beauty contest for restaurants and their chefs called the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. This initiative's…
Michelin: A Friendship That Went Sour
I started serious dining out in 1986 when I had a fellowship…
The Society of the Illusionists: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Once a year in the early spring, the restaurant world holds the…
Gastromondiale’s Madeleines of 2017: Part I (Editors)
Gastromondiale, we are moved by dishes that entice our senses and only…
Form Swallows Function: The Tyranny of Tasting Menus
Tasting menus have played a major part in the debasement of dining…
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Coda: An Overpriced, Overhyped Experience with Overwhelming Sweetness
THE LOCATION Located on a dimly lit street in Neukölln,…
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The Poet of the Palate: An Appreciation, Appraisal and Analysis of the Writings of Jonathan Gold
On the continuum of critical writings, restaurant reviews fall somewhere between the Venice Biennale and the toaster ovens in Consumer Reports.…
Tributes to Bernard Pacaud, Part II: The Last of the Mohicans
Inconceivable these days, Bernard Pacaud began his apprenticeship with the Lyons culinary legend La Mère Brazier when he only 15…
Tributes to Bernard Pacaud, Part I: The Silence of the L’Ambroisie
In terms of experiencing this Age d’Or de la Gastronomie, which is what we think every aspiring gastronome who already…
Chef Guy Gateau Recalls Joël Robuchon
It is nbsp no wonder that I revere Guy Gateau. In a remarkable twist of fate or coincidence he prepared…
Feeding Off Each Other: Henrique Jayer & Robert Brown Discuss Les Maisons de Bricourt–Olivier & Jane Roellinger’s Brittany Seafood Haven
Le Coquillage is not a restaurant that attempts to solicit diners. This is a rare case where the “figure” of…
Gastromondiale’s Madeleines of 2017: Part II (Contributors)
At Gastromondiale, we are moved by dishes that entice our senses and only subsequently instigate us to consider the technical…
Paul Bocuse: Larger than Life
When a living legend is no longer living, the air immediately after the demise is filled with no shortage of…
My 2017 You Can Never Go Home Again (Or Can You?) Tour
In recently planning the most rigorous European dining trip since going back to living full-time in the States, my goal…
Man Bites Truffle: Eating and Drinking in Piedmont in Late Fall
The world looks like a bigger place when you stand on the edge of a hill in Piedmont, Italy. Light…
Bruce Palling and Wall Street Journal: Poverty of Western Restaurant Criticism and Ibai in Donostia
We are witnessing a very interesting moment in history today, regarding food and wine criticism. On the one hand, there…