Restaurant Reviews
Best Meals in Spain in 2022: Part 1 (Madrid)
I dined extensively in Spain after the long and dark days of the pandemic. This particular review contains my best meals in Madrid in 2022.
Hedone: Towards the Peak of Gastronomy
A recent meal there in April 2017 moved me sufficiently to write about Hedone. To put it very bluntly, in my first meal I have had some good and very…
Best Meals in Spain in 2022: Part 1 (Madrid)
I dined extensively in Spain after the long and dark days of…
Hedone: Towards the Peak of Gastronomy
A recent meal there in April 2017 moved me sufficiently to write…
Perfect Symphony of Senses: The World of Michel Guérard
Two meals at Michel Guérard’s gastronomic restaurant in Eugénie-les-Bains put me in…
Tales from Le Cinq: Navigating the Flavors of Excellence and a Few Potholes
In this review, Chef Christian Le Squer's culinary prowess shines as he…
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Bagá: Avant-Garde Flavors and Emotional Journey in the Heart of Jaén, Spain
I left Bagá unable to express in words all that…
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Japan Journey Journal, Part Two: Restaurant Yanagiya, A Revered Country Cuisine Sketched In Charcoal
Japan has more than its share of difficult-to-book restaurants, particularly some of the sushi and kaiseki ones in Tokyo. In…
Japan Journey Journal, Part One: Tokyo Dining, Particularly Sushi, Overall
What France in the 1980s was and what Spain continues to be since the early 2000s is what Japan is…
Epicure – Harmony, Products and Precision
Neo-nouvelle cuisine is what can be seen as the logical progression of nouvelle cuisine, it is what some might call…
Feeding Off Each Other: Henrique Jayer & Robert Brown Discuss Les Maisons de Bricourt–Olivier & Jane Roellinger’s Brittany Seafood Haven
Le Coquillage is not a restaurant that attempts to solicit diners. This is a rare case where the “figure” of…
El Celler de Can Roca: End of History?
I have dined three times in the new location in Girona. Now, besides being a Michelin three-starred restaurant, Can Roca…
The Apotheosis of Western Seafood: Elkano and Güeyu Mar
It is probable that neither Abel of Güeyu Mar, nor Aitor of Elkano perceive themselves as great chefs. Probably they…
Restaurant Review: Argoura, Athens
If one ranks Mediterranean countries in terms of their handling of seafood, Greece will not make it to the top…
Revisiting Passard’s L’Arpège – Intermittently Brilliant and Unwrought
Is there a French chef of the 21st century who has done more to jettison the hallowed conventions of the…
Last Trip to Passédat’s Le Petit Nice
Few meals in recent memory have left me as frustrated and angry. I was disappointed because we had ordered the…
Pierre Gagnaire, Paris
A Pierre Gagnaire dish might be extremely cerebral at its initial conception and dangerously experimental during its development. Such a…