Austrian White Wines (September – December 2014)

Vedat Milor
By
Vedat Milor
Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He...
3 Min Read

In this brief article, I will review the following wines:

1993 Nikolaihof Gruner Veltliner “Vinothek”

2008 Knoll Smaragd “Loibenberg”

2009 Hirtzberber “Singerreidel” Riesling

2010 Jager Riesling Smaragd “Achleiten”

2011 Prager Gruner Veltliner “Ahleiten”

2011 Schloss Gobelsberg Riesling “Gaisberg” Kamptal

2012 Schloss Gobelsberg Riesling “Gaisberg” Kamptal

2013 Ott Gruner Veltliner “Am Berg”


2011 Prager Grüner Veltliner “Ahleiten”

Tropical, pineapple aroma contrasts with bone dry palate. Impressive in minerality and mid palate. Dried herbs developed in the aroma. Quite complex and many years ahead. Remains balanced despite 14% alcohol. 93/100

1993 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner “Vinothek”

Quite subdued dry herbs, smoke, apple and pear aroma. Clean palate with depth. Tons of minerality. Polished, lean and concentrated with very long finish that is nuanced with grassy herbs and quince and stony minerality. 96/100

2013 Ott Grüner Veltliner “Am Berg”

Herbal nose, nice cut and citrus fruit. Lean with medium acidity. Not complex but in balance. Meant to be drunk young. 88/100

2010 Jager Riesling Smaragd “Achleiten”

Lean, elegant. Slaty, minerally nose with a wiff of lemon rind. Good structure. Medium body, citrus fruit peel like tart and bitter finish. Perfect match with sashimi. It has character. 13.5%. 93/100

2008 Knoll Smaragd “Loibenberg”

Floral, summer pit fruits aroma. A bit restrained on the palette with peach, apricot, quince, green apple and bracing acidity. Chalky minerality in the finish makes this quite complex and satisfactory. 93/100

2012 Schloss Gobelsberg Riesling “Gaisberg” Kamptal

More subdued than Wachau Rieslings. It has a minty-herbal and citrus, green apple nose followed by riper pit fruits and candied lime and some slaty mineral notes in the finish. Intense and balanced wine. Has good grip and works well with complex vegetable dishes. 91/100

2011 Schloss Gobelsberg Riesling “Gaisberg” Kamptal

Similar notes as above except slightly lesser acidity. Softer than 2012 but still has very good balance and mineral notes in the finish. Paired with tomato gazpacho with anise hyssop gelee. 90/100

2009 Hirtzberger, “Singerreidel”, Riesling

Very lush and rich with tropical fruit and fat body due to botrytis. Needs spicy and fat food to match. Should age well. 92+/100

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Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He co-founded Gastroville in 2004 and later launched Gastromondiale, now an international platform for thoughtful restaurant criticism and culinary writing.
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