Tacos, Tradition, and the Michelin Money Machine
The only thing that distinguishes El Califa de Leon by sight, is the guy whose sole function is to take the cash. Few taquerias splooge on such a luxury, but…
Perfect Symphony of Senses: The World of Michel Guérard
Two meals at Michel Guérard’s gastronomic restaurant in Eugénie-les-Bains put me in a strange and contradictory mood: ecstatic, yet resentful. I was ecstatic because I rarely experience simultaneous awaking and…
Hedone: Towards the Peak of Gastronomy
A recent meal there in April 2017 moved me sufficiently to write…
Perfect Symphony of Senses: The World of Michel Guérard
Two meals at Michel Guérard’s gastronomic restaurant in Eugénie-les-Bains put me in…
French Haute Cuisine: Dead or Alive? Reflections on L’Ambroisie and Le Cinq
Sensationalism and marketing gimmicks aside, is it true that the Haute Cuisine…
Tales from Le Cinq: Navigating the Flavors of Excellence and a Few Potholes
In this review, Chef Christian Le Squer's culinary prowess shines as he…
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Tacos, Tradition, and the Michelin Money Machine
The only thing that distinguishes El Califa de Leon by…
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Last Trip to Passédat’s Le Petit Nice
Few meals in recent memory have left me as frustrated and angry. I was disappointed because we had ordered the…
Pierre Gagnaire, Paris
A Pierre Gagnaire dish might be extremely cerebral at its initial conception and dangerously experimental during its development. Such a…
Ca L’Enric: More than the Woodcock Menu
Ca l’Enric makes me think of the cold, game, mushrooms, the forest floor, and savoury truffle. Their fireplace and the…
Trip to Corfu: Etrusco and Others
Ettore Botrini is an excellent chef with a clear vision. Before heading to his restaurant I had the wrong impression…
Lera
You have to be brave to convert Castroverde de Campos, a small town in the middle of Tierra de Campos,…
Manresa: A Restaurant with Complex, Focused and Balanced Cooking
Manresa’s multi-course degustation menu is among the few exceptions for several reasons. Chef Kinch knows well how to build a…
Le Meilleur Bouillabaisse: Le Petit Nice
Le Petit Nice is the only three starred restaurant in the close vicinity of Marseille. Some claims that Michelin accorded…
Bruce Palling and Wall Street Journal: Poverty of Western Restaurant Criticism and Ibai in Donostia
We are witnessing a very interesting moment in history today, regarding food and wine criticism. On the one hand, there…
El Celler de Can Roca
Joan Roca’s cooking has always technically very elaborate but also delicious. He often subjects the same dish to multiple cooking…
Tokyo Journal by David Kinch
The Michelin guides awards more three stars to Tokyo than to any other city in the world, but for many…