In this brief article, I will review the following wines:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo \u201cRionda\u201d Riserva
1990 Altesino Brunello Montosoli
1990 Guiseppe Mascarello, Barolo \u201cMonprivato\u201d
1997 Solaia
2001 Vernaccia di Oristano
2004 Calabretta Etna Rosso
2007 La Stoppa \u201cMacchiona\u201d
2008 Sardus Pater, Sulsic, Carignano, \u201cNur\u201d
2010 Agricole Parovel Vitovska \u201cVinja Barde\u201d
2010 La Stoppa Trebbiolo \u201cFrizzante\u201d
2010 Tenuta Terre Nere, Etna Prephylloxera, \u201cLa Vigne di Don Peppino\u201d
2012 Occhipinti \u201cIl Frappato\u201d
2013 Punta Crena, Rossesse, Liguria<\/p>\n\n\n\n
2010 La Stoppa Trebbiolo “Frizzante” <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Tart and peppery nose followed by a juicy blackberry palette with an interesting finish that alternates between sweet and earthy. Perfect match with spicy salumi and cig kofte<\/em>, kibbe<\/em> and Adana kebab. Not to be scorn at. 90\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1997 Solaia<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Sweet red and black berries, tree bark, cedar and tobacco aroma. Silky, sexy and sweet and underlying acidity keeps it alive. Earthy finish. At its peak. Successful example of international style. Actually better than 97 Sassicaia<\/strong>. 13.5% alcohol. 92\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2007 La Stoppa “Macchiona”<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Earthy, dried red berries aroma. A bit pruney but acidity saves it. The fruit disappears fast and the medium-long finish is earthy and spicy and has some heat. It became more fruity in glass. An intriguing wine which went well with an earthy Bolognese sauce linguini<\/em>. I found the cheaper \u201cfrizzante\u201d better balanced though. 15% alcohol. 88\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo “Rionda” Riserva<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A great Barolo. Still no browning at the edges. Both the aroma and palette is complex and the finish is sweet and delightful. Iron minerals, spices, freshly roasted Jamaica blue mountain coffee, tar, ginger, touch anise and cumin nose. The palette displays a range of flavors of earth, spice and both red and black fruits which are candied but not heavy due to perfect acidity. The tannins are felt in the finish showing that this will continue to improve. Clearly the wine has not been over-extracted and the tannins have not been polished through micro-oxidation. This is what great Barolo should be with a unique depth but rarely is. 97+\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2004 Calabretta Etna Rosso<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A very good Nerello Mascalese. The aroma is Burgundian with soft spice, sweet red and black berries. Silky texture, well integrated tannins. Pinot like Napoleon cherry, black raspberry, blueberry on the palette. The fruit is sweet but not jammy. There is an iron-mineral finish coming from volcanic soil in the medium-long finish. The acidity is buried in the fruit. 94\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1990 Altesino Brunello Montosoli<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This is an elegant brunello with melted tannins, good fruit and underlying acidity which is in proportion with the mostly cherry and pomegranate fruits and a medium long finish with touch earthiness that developed over 2 hours. 92\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1990 Guiseppe Mascarello, Barolo “Monprivato”<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Outstanding and at its peak but will hold. Complex and intoxicating aroma with rose and sweet flowers and summer berries. Tannins have melted and acid-fruit-tannin are all in perfect harmony. The texture is silky and elegant. The fruit is reminiscent of the small and white colored Ottoman strawberries of my youth, along with blueberries. The finish is iron like minerality and the sweet fruit lingers. Complex and gives great pleasure. 97\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2010 Tenuta Terre Nere, Etna Prephylloxera, \u201cLa Vigne di Don Peppino” <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Good but not as good as Calabretta above. The nose is more attractive than the palette with Burgundian notes of soft spice and ripe plums and black berries. The palette is slightly diluted and all elements have not yet come together and the oak detracts from the overall pleasure. The finish is complex with iron minerality and a green-herbal element. Maybe the year was quite hot and it is possible that over time the wine will become jammy. But I had very good bottles before so there is hope that this will give pleasure in five years. 89+\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2013 Punta Crena, Rossesse, Liguria<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A very light red which gives pleasure. The nose is very floral. Low acidity, no tannins (carbonic maceration?), soft red fruits, peach, cantaloupe, strawberry. 89\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2008 Sardus Pater, Sulsic, Carignano, \u201cNur\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Quite earthy, fungus and wild thyme aroma. Mostly black fruits are on the ripe side but not over-extracted and the medium finish is interesting reminiscent of red clay soil. This wine has character and quite different than old vine carignane from Priorat. Paired well with a stew of wild boar, venison and goat with a rich tomato and saffron broth. 91\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2012 Occhipinti “Il Frappato”<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n An interesting Sicilian that goes against the trend of jammy wines in the region. Freshly cut herbs, grass, cranberry juice cinnamon and ginger aroma. Light and zippy on the palate with tart red raspberry. Short to medium finish is herbal but not green. 12.5% alcohol. I like this food friendly wine. 90\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2010 Agricole Parovel Vitovska “Vinja Barde” <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n My first experience with Vitovska from Friuli. This is a lean, clean, focused white with a saline and floral nose and very precise pit fruits backed by underlying bracing acidity and crushed sea shell type minerality in the finish. Smooth texture. 92\/100<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2001 VERNACCIA DI ORISTANO<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n I did not write down the producer but wanted to highlight this high alcohol, oxidative wine with a saline finish (reminiscent of Manzanilla sherry) as an excellent accompaniment to a rich bottarga<\/em> pasta, as well as fregola<\/em> with tuna hearts and sea urchin.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" In this brief article, I will review the following wines: 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo \u201cRionda\u201d Riserva 1990 Altesino Brunello Montosoli 1990 Guiseppe Mascarello, Barolo \u201cMonprivato\u201d 1997 Solaia 2001 Vernaccia di Oristano2004 Calabretta Etna Rosso 2007 La Stoppa \u201cMacchiona\u201d 2008 Sardus Pater, Sulsic, Carignano, \u201cNur\u201d 2010 Agricole Parovel Vitovska \u201cVinja Barde\u201d 2010 La Stoppa Trebbiolo \u201cFrizzante\u201d […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":7616,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[286,181],"tags":[178,180,3,172,179,47],"ppma_author":[272],"authors":[{"term_id":272,"user_id":2,"is_guest":0,"slug":"vedatmilor","display_name":"Vedat Milor","avatar_url":{"url":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/1_Vedat_fiverr_A4.jpg","url2x":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/1_Vedat_fiverr_A4.jpg"},"first_name":"Vedat","last_name":"Milor","user_url":"","description":"My obsession with exquisite products and wines with character developed in tandem during my graduate studies at U.C. Berkeley. The food at the International House, Berkeley was beyond belief for somebody born in Turkey who was accustomed to fine home cooking. Chez Panisse came to my rescue and was an eye opener for me in the sense that I had never thought that one could eat great food in restaurants. (Even to this day, the best of the Turkish cuisine can only be experienced in households.) At about the same time, I also discovered the taste of decent, affordable French wines at Kermit Lynch. Next I was rewarded a nine months fellowship in France intended for Ph.D. research. Yet, in practice, I primarily studied how to wine and dine at the Michelin starred restaurants, including 30 or so meals at the best restaurant of the time, Robuchon\u2019s Jamin (when there still was a 140 FF lunch menu, equivalent to about 15 USD given the exchange rate in the 1980s). The rest is history. In 2004, while working at Georgia Tech as an associate professor, Mikael Jonsson and I started Gastroville and laid out criteria for restaurant evaluations. We parted ways in 2009 when he decided to devote himself to Hedone in London. I launched Gastromondiale and transferred the articles I had written to this website. Gastromondiale is now on its way of becoming truly \u201cmondiale\u201d (global) through the addition of three more editors and several contributors."}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=248"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7907,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248\/revisions\/7907"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7616"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=248"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=248"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=248"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gastromondiale.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=248"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}White Wines<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n