Articles on Food
Michelin: A Friendship That Went Sour
I started serious dining out in 1986 when I had a fellowship to study for a year in France and lunch menus in three star restaurants were affordable. [...] Nowadays…
The Society of the Illusionists: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Once a year in the early spring, the restaurant world holds the equivalent of a beauty contest for restaurants and their chefs called the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. This initiative's…
Michelin: A Friendship That Went Sour
I started serious dining out in 1986 when I had a fellowship…
The Society of the Illusionists: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Once a year in the early spring, the restaurant world holds the…
Gastromondiale’s Madeleines of 2017: Part I (Editors)
Gastromondiale, we are moved by dishes that entice our senses and only…
Bruce Palling and Wall Street Journal: Poverty of Western Restaurant Criticism and Ibai in Donostia
We are witnessing a very interesting moment in history today, regarding food…
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Bagá: Avant-Garde Flavors and Emotional Journey in the Heart of Jaén, Spain
I left Bagá unable to express in words all that…
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A Theory of the Creation of a Dish: Part II
Food has the power to nourish not only our bodies but also our souls. For many, the experience of dining…
A Theory of the Creation of a Dish: Part I
Food has the power to nourish not only our bodies but also our souls. For many, the experience of dining…
A Theory of Ingredients: Musings and Hypothetical Conversations
I had a fascination with gastronomy first piqued more than a decade ago by Vedat Milor and Mikael Jonsson’s unequalled…
Michelin Gets Caught Red-Handed in Korea: An Unfolding Saga
Since the time that the Guide Michelin commissioned in 2015 a guide to Seoul, paid for by the government’s Korean…
Neapolitan Pizza Primer – Entry #1 in the Gastromondiale Pizza Journal
To speak about pizza, and Neapolitan pizza in particular, is a risky endeavor. The theme is more encompassing and complex…
The problem of protein; or, why I want to ‘save’ food for pleasure
More recently, something interesting began to happen. The line of questioning that starts with ‘why do you do it?’ began…
The Michelin/Visit California Guide Rush
With pronouncements vouching for Michelin’s “unrivaled integrity, independence, and expertise”, the Director of Visit California was apparently unaware of, wasn’t…
One Part Genius To One Part Hype: Nouvelle Cuisine Française Clarified
The term “Nouvelle Cuisine” is not as new as one might think. Marin codified 18th-century French cuisine, while Menon (pseudonym)…
Dining in the Bay Area, Part One: Introduction
As a dining destination, the Bay Area had never really interested me. The Michelin stars kept tumbling in, but I…
Gastromondiale’s Madeleines of 2018
Gastromondiale, we are moved by dishes that entice our senses and only subsequently instigate us to consider the technical or…