I decided to record my thoughts on this Champagne because it is very impressive, especially considering the price. It is the Lieu-dit Les Genevraux from the village of Troissy, crafted by a producer I did not previously know, Dehours & Fils. I should also note right away that this Champagne is 100% Pinot Meunier.
It is obviously a very low dosage Champagne that utilizes the solera method. I personally prefer a slightly oxidative nose, which this wine delivers perfectly without being overwhelming. It possesses both body and finesse at the same time. It is a quite complex Champagne with subtle apple notes. The bubbles are extraordinarily refined. There appears to be a little maceration, reminiscent of apple skin, accompanied by a touch of citrus. It is a wonderfully layered wine with a quite long finish.
Gastronomically, it pairs extremely well with dishes like caviar, oysters, and cod yolk. While it is not quite the Jacques Selosse style in its specific use of the solera method and oxidative touches, it certainly stands on its own and is full of character.
As the Champagne sat in the glass, it became even more interesting towards the end of the tasting. It developed a certain umami dimension. This clearly indicates the use of an interesting, quite natural yeast with the Pinot Meunier, making the wine even more complex and savory. For a wine from 2022 that was disgorged in 2023, it offers a great price-to-quality ratio right now. I certainly look forward to tasting more Champagne from this house.
