2022 El Maderal, Vaguerabt Alvar de Dios

Vedat Milor
By
Vedat Milor
Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He...
2 Min Read

I am tasting this for the first time, and I find it brimming with character and personality, which is exactly why I wanted to share it with you. I have not looked deeply into the winemaker’s specific methods, but the wine is Vagüera, crafted by Alvaro de Dios. It hails from Zamora in Spain, located near the Portuguese border within the Castilla y León region.

While I am not extensively familiar with the Doña Blanca grape variety, what truly captivates me about this wine is its texture. It possesses remarkable volume without feeling heavy in the slightest. It is evident that indigenous yeasts were used, as the wine beautifully fills the palate. It is highly salivating and pleasant. The acidity is not overly aggressive; rather, it is perfectly balanced, leading into a very long finish. The texture is silky and full, yet it comes across as profoundly honest.

Perhaps the most pronounced element, which suggests a bit of skin maceration, is a slight bitterness reminiscent of almond skin. However, this is impeccably balanced by the fullness and richness on the palate. At thirteen percent alcohol, one can distinctly sense the presence of old vines through the wine’s creaminess. It is exceptionally good and would pair wonderfully with fatty or gelatinous fish, or perhaps lobster. Overall, it is a highly impressive wine. Although I was not previously familiar with this producer, it is abundantly clear that he is a meticulous perfectionist.

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Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He co-founded Gastroville in 2004 and later launched Gastromondiale, now an international platform for thoughtful restaurant criticism and culinary writing.
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