2019 Gran Enemigo

Vedat Milor
By
Vedat Milor
Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He...
2 Min Read

This is the Gran Enemigo, an Argentinian blend that appears to be driven by Cabernet Franc, supported perhaps by a touch of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. I must confess at the outset that I do not claim to be an authority on Argentinian wines, yet this bottle offers a level of grand elegance that I had not encountered before from this region. It clearly speaks of old vineyards, displaying a remarkable sense of balance right from the start.

The nose is strikingly reminiscent of a Bordeaux. If served blind, one could easily be persuaded that this is a high-end Saint-Émilion. While it may not possess the elusive complexity of a Château Ausone, it certainly shares the noble qualities of that terroir. It exhibits distinct notes of blue fruit and a pronounced salinity, grounded by mineral tones, an earthy underbrush touch, and hints of mushroom.

On the palate, the wine reveals lush fruit, yet—crucially—it avoids being unidimensional or overly fruity. It is a salivating wine with a rounded texture, supported by excellent acidity and a quite smooth, medium-to-long finish. The structure is sound, but what I particularly appreciate is the restraint; clocking in at 13.5% alcohol, it displays far more elegance than quite a few other Malbec-heavy wines I have tasted.

I appreciate the balance, the harmony, and the juiciness of this wine. It manages to deliver these elements without any excess or heavy extraction. I was later informed that this wine has received a perfect score—a Parker 100. While I find that to be somewhat of an exaggeration, there is no denying its merit. It is a genuinely good wine, offering a refined experience that pairs exceptionally well with red meat.

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Vedat Milor developed his passion for fine food and wine during his studies at U.C. Berkeley and later in France, where he explored Michelin-starred dining. He co-founded Gastroville in 2004 and later launched Gastromondiale, now an international platform for thoughtful restaurant criticism and culinary writing.
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