I usually don’t talk much about Bordeaux because I don’t drink it often. In my view, young Bordeaux should not be drunk; they require patience. However, when they age properly and come from a great vintage and a prestigious estate, they transform into what I consider some of the most sensual and gracious wines imaginable, especially once the tannins have fully resolved.
This 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion is a perfect example. I have kept this bottle in very good condition and the fill level was remarkably high. While I have had some truly excellent California Cabernets—wines that were deep, complex, and filled with various elements—I have never encountered the same level of harmony, subtlety, and sensuality that this Graves possesses. It is a wine of extraordinary graciousness.
The structure is defined by a perfect balance of acidity and resolved tannins. It is simply “just right” in every aspect. All the descriptors you find in the classic literature are present here: tobacco, campfire, cedar, and that characteristic brick note so often associated with the Graves terroir. While the fruit is certainly there, the most important thing for me is the overall “feel” of the wine. It is like a very soft piece of music that gently caresses your ear.
The fruit has evolved into something slightly sweeter and incredibly delightful. To be clear, it is certainly not pruney; rather, it possesses a refined ripeness that caresses the throat. Everything exists in a state of perfect equilibrium. My only complaint—if one could call it that—is that a bottle like this disappears far too quickly. It leaves you feeling truly wonderful.
In terms of a final verdict, this is a quintessential example of why we wait for great Bordeaux. It is a wine that reaches the soul through its sheer balance and elegance.
I had some ’89 and some ’90 La Mission in my collection years ago and thought it was comparable to Haut Brion itself, with a personality of its own, not merely a second and lesser label. I wish I still had some.