This is an amazing wine: the 1952 Chateau Ygay from Rioja. It is quite an interesting bottle, particularly regarding the nomenclature used by the esteemed producer Marqués de Murrieta. Apparently, between the years 1952 and 1957, they were permitted to use the term “Chateau” on their labels before the French government officially objected to the practice. This bottle represents a truly golden age for the great Riojas, an era of exceptional quality that lasted perhaps up until the 1970s. I am not entirely certain of all the historical details that followed. While the 1973 vintage is also great, I believe many of the region’s best vineyards from that period were unfortunately lost to urban development and turned into apartment blocks.
When we examine the wine itself, the first thing that strikes you is its extraordinary color, which remains remarkably vibrant for a seventy-three-year-old wine. The most compelling aspect here is the beautiful contrast between the nose and the palate. The aromatics present very baked, caramelized red fruits with a delicate touch of spices. Yet, on the palate, the wine reveals beautifully melted tannins. It is by no means oxidative. Instead, it offers a profoundly fresh feel of red berries. Tasting it evokes the precise sensation of walking through a forest brimming with wild berries, a freshness which then transitions gracefully back to those complex, caramelized, and baked aromas.
This wine tries to emulate neither Burgundy nor Bordeaux; it truly represents the absolute best expression of the Tempranillo grape. Over the decades, it has softened and evolved, becoming wonderfully complex, velvety, elegant, and lush. At the same time, it miraculously retains a zesty, savory freshness that is entirely captivating. It is, without a doubt, a truly great wine.
