Two trips to this Parisian restaurant proved that this is one of the most exciting restaurants where I will be looking forward to dine in the future. Madame Grattard cooks well balanced and perfectly seasoned dishes with considerable depth for 20 to 25 guests. It would be inaccurate to call this “an Asian restaurant,” because although the chef has spent time in Hong Kong and is a master of some Asian spices and sauces, her sensibility is very much modern French, reminiscent of Passard and Barbot (she worked at L’Astrance), with the rigor, attention to detail, precision, and the search for excellent ingredients we expect from these Michelin three macaroon chefs.
This said, the cooking is original, mature, personal, and imaginative, the hallmarks of a great chef. Another attractive feature is wine matching for each course. The wines are selected by a young sommelier, Mlle Marine, and over the two visits I found her selections to be commendable. The wines offered by glass are not only good matches for the dishes, but also they are good wines on their own right. She chose wines with good acidity, minerality, and a lean structure, rather than heavier, jammy, international style, Parker wines.