RATING STANDARDS FOR SPECIALTY RESTAURANTS AND INFORMAL
RESTAURANTS
Clearly the standards outlined for formal restaurants with
fully equipped kitchens do not apply to mom and pop diners or to specialty restaurants. Regarding the latter, there are a number
of restaurants throughout the world
whose “raison d’etre” is to excel in the preparation of a traditional
plate. In Spain this plate may be a “paella”, a roasted “baby lamb or
pork”, in Italy we may be talking about
a “porchetta stand”, in the US we
encounter “southern barbecue joints” and “burger stands”, in the Middle East we have “kebap houses”
and “offal eateries”, in Japan we have a hole in the wall “sushi” stores, etc.
How do you compare a porchetta stand in Greve, Chianti with, say, the French Laundry?
Secondly, there are the so called “informal” restaurants
where sometimes one person labors in the kitchen. Traditional bistros in France, tapas bars in Andalucia and the Basque country, Mexican “fast food” places, some “osteria” in Italy, etc. fall in this category.
I accept that sometimes the dividing line in blurred between
a formal and informal restaurant. For example, some high end bistros in France do have ambitions which
supersede the preparation of simple
traditional meals. Chefs such as
Camdeborde, Frechon (prior to overtaking Bristol)
and many others often turn out dishes far superior to ones prepared even in
some Michelin 3 stars kitchens. One then
needs to make a judgment call when classifying these restaurants for the
purposes of evaluation systems. On the other hand, no judgment call is needed
if we are talking about an “asador” in Ribera del Duero or a traditional
countryside bistro in rural France
which prepares an “andouillette” with no
concession to modern trends and fads. One may or may not like the taste
(deliciousness is subjective) but one has to give credit to the chef when it is
due.
For such specialty/informal places I offer the following
point system of evaluation:
5. The best of its category. A must go.
4. A very good example of its category. One of the best.
3. Good. If you are craving for that kind of food, you will not be disappointed.
2. Fair.
1. Below average.
0. Should be avoided at all cost. Cross the street and run away!
